2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazertiers”

Vintage: 2009

Producer/Winery: Domaine Faiveley

Wine: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazetiers”

Country: France

Region: Burgundy

Appellation: Gevrey-Chambertin

Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir

Aging: 75% New French  Oak

Climate: Continental-Micro-Climate

Alcohol: 13 %

Winemaker: François Faiveley

Production:  +/-7000 bottles

Bottle Value: $80 USD

Where: New York Vintners When: August 30, 2011         With whom: Shane Benson

Perspective:  It was one of those long and normal 14 hour days where there was no one around to distract me.  Mind you I was entering inventory results which is one of the most painful things any wine shop owner/manager will ever do with their time and I had been at it for two days.  It was around midnight and Shane strolled in and we decided to crack a bottle and catch up with how well things were going and how much more we needed to do to make things the way we want them.  We started with a bottle of Italian Syrah-2006 Harys-which was dead in the bottle and a total piece of shit.  Busy at the computer still staying true to entering data I sent Shane back out to the floor to retrieve a better bottle and he returned with a palm covered bottled of wine and poured it into a new glass.  Upon aroma the wine was pretty good compared to the previous wine but it seemed to lack energy and intellect. It was somewhat bright for a moment and showed potential on the palate because it was tight but it soon revealed that it was mediocre and very New World in style when in fact it was a 2008 Volnay from Domaine Lafond.  What the hell is happening to Burgundy these days?  When did oak, extraction, fruit and lack of terroir infect areas like Volnay.  Just a few nights ago we tasted the 2006 Dugat Py Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Evocelles” which was very similar and more fruit driven than a Gevrey is ever supposed to be.  Neither of these wines seem to represent what I consider to be Volnay or Gevrey-Chambertin nor did they show potential to grow up and become such things that make them timeless.   I turned my focus on the massive lineup of Domaine Faiveley that we had  just received-at least 6 single vineyards-and honed right into the one that would make or break my opinion that Burgundy was on its way to becoming modern. We opened a bottle of 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazetiers”.  I discovered-mind you in a larger producer-a   wine that was perfectly balanced in every way and has the integrity to be tucked away for the long haul(5-10 years).  Honestly unless you have four hours to spend with this wine then just store it and trust that you should wait until it develops into a great bottle of wine. This is the perfect bottle for those who want to store a good Burgundy and see what happens over the course of  a decade.  The lesson learned from this bottle is important to any Burgundy Enthusiast.  Buy at least a case(12 bottles) and taste it every 6 months and I assure you that it is worth it.  Gevrey-Chambertin, in its youthful true form, should be lean and full of iron-like minerals, subtle red cherry and everything that could ever be sensed in an old barely standing barn.  For all of you purist out there I think this one has some potential.

Systematic Approach

Appearance: Clear clarity. Medium Intense deep ruby core and pale rim.  No sediment or deposits.

Nose:  Clean. Pronounced youthful aromas of vanilla, hay/straw, rusted metal, cranberry, mushroom, stemmy green herbs and oak spice with hints of diacetyl-butter- from the malolactic fermentation.

Palate: Dry. Medium(+) acidity. Medium tannins,  alcohol, and body.  Medium (+) intense flavors of ripe cherry, red liquorices, earthy mineral, smoke and vanilla.  Balance – Refreshing acidity,  warm alcohol and well defined fruit. Texture – firm/elegant tannins and fluid viscosity.  Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, expressive freshness and harmonious. Medium (+) length.

Conclusion: Great quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 5-10 years.