2009 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazertiers”
Vintage: 2009
Producer/Winery: Domaine Faiveley
Wine: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazetiers”
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Gevrey-Chambertin
Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir
Aging: 75% New French Oak
Climate: Continental-Micro-Climate
Alcohol: 13 %
Winemaker: François Faiveley
Production: +/-7000 bottles
Bottle Value: $80 USD
Where: New York Vintners When: August 30, 2011 With whom: Shane Benson
Perspective: It was one of those long and normal 14 hour days where there was no one around to distract me. Mind you I was entering inventory results which is one of the most painful things any wine shop owner/manager will ever do with their time and I had been at it for two days. It was around midnight and Shane strolled in and we decided to crack a bottle and catch up with how well things were going and how much more we needed to do to make things the way we want them. We started with a bottle of Italian Syrah-2006 Harys-which was dead in the bottle and a total piece of shit. Busy at the computer still staying true to entering data I sent Shane back out to the floor to retrieve a better bottle and he returned with a palm covered bottled of wine and poured it into a new glass. Upon aroma the wine was pretty good compared to the previous wine but it seemed to lack energy and intellect. It was somewhat bright for a moment and showed potential on the palate because it was tight but it soon revealed that it was mediocre and very New World in style when in fact it was a 2008 Volnay from Domaine Lafond. What the hell is happening to Burgundy these days? When did oak, extraction, fruit and lack of terroir infect areas like Volnay. Just a few nights ago we tasted the 2006 Dugat Py Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Evocelles” which was very similar and more fruit driven than a Gevrey is ever supposed to be. Neither of these wines seem to represent what I consider to be Volnay or Gevrey-Chambertin nor did they show potential to grow up and become such things that make them timeless. I turned my focus on the massive lineup of Domaine Faiveley that we had just received-at least 6 single vineyards-and honed right into the one that would make or break my opinion that Burgundy was on its way to becoming modern. We opened a bottle of 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Cazetiers”. I discovered-mind you in a larger producer-a wine that was perfectly balanced in every way and has the integrity to be tucked away for the long haul(5-10 years). Honestly unless you have four hours to spend with this wine then just store it and trust that you should wait until it develops into a great bottle of wine. This is the perfect bottle for those who want to store a good Burgundy and see what happens over the course of a decade. The lesson learned from this bottle is important to any Burgundy Enthusiast. Buy at least a case(12 bottles) and taste it every 6 months and I assure you that it is worth it. Gevrey-Chambertin, in its youthful true form, should be lean and full of iron-like minerals, subtle red cherry and everything that could ever be sensed in an old barely standing barn. For all of you purist out there I think this one has some potential.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Medium Intense deep ruby core and pale rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Pronounced youthful aromas of vanilla, hay/straw, rusted metal, cranberry, mushroom, stemmy green herbs and oak spice with hints of diacetyl-butter- from the malolactic fermentation.
Palate: Dry. Medium(+) acidity. Medium tannins, alcohol, and body. Medium (+) intense flavors of ripe cherry, red liquorices, earthy mineral, smoke and vanilla. Balance – Refreshing acidity, warm alcohol and well defined fruit. Texture – firm/elegant tannins and fluid viscosity. Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, expressive freshness and harmonious. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Great quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 5-10 years.
2006 Tres Sabores “Porque No?”
Vintage: 2006
Producer/Winery: Tres Sabores
Wine: “Porque No?”
Country: USA
Region: California
Appellation: Napa Valley, Sonoma County, & Lake County
Varietal Composition: Zinfandel(52%) Cabernet Sauvignon (32%) Petite Sirah (15%) Petit Verdot (1%)
Aging: French and American Oak
Climate: Continental
Alcohol: 13 %
Winemaker: Julie Johnson
Production: +/-500 cases (Organic)
Bottle Value: $23 USD
Where: New York Vintners When: January 18, 2011 With whom: Brandon Wright
Perspective: Sitting at my desk finishing up a long day. Brandon and I are talking about how busy and great things are lately with the wine classes and events. I went downstairs to the cellar to grab a bottle of something smooth and easy and there and behold my recent order of Porque No? where right in front of me. This is one of my favorite wines from California from winemaker Julie Johnson who I consider a talented colleague among the many crazies that inhabit this industry. This wine has been a favorite of mine for about four years. Smooth supple spicy black fruits with creamy soft layers of vanilla and toasty oak. Imagine the best blackberry cobbler you have every had in your life-crispy, toasty, buttery cinnamon crust filled with the perfect amount of sweet and lush macerated blackberries that seem to last forever on your palate. This is truly such a relaxing experience to drink this wine at the end of my day. Cheers Julie can’t wait to see you this summer on my next visit to Napa!
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Medium(+) Intense opaque ruby core and rim with purple highlights. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Pronounced youthful aromas of vanilla, oak spice and blackberry and ruby red grapefruit.
Palate: Dry. Medium(+) acidity. Medium tannins. Medium alcohol. Medium (+) body. Medium (+) intense flavors of ripe raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, toast, cinnamon, and vanilla. Balance – Refreshing acidity, warm alcohol and well defined black and red fruits. Texture – velvety tannins and supple viscosity. Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, expressive freshness and harmonious. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Great quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 2-3 years.
2002 Frederic Magnien Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Charmes VV
Vintage: 2002
Producer/Winery: Frederic Magnien
Wine: Chambolle-Musigny Charmes 1er Cru Vielle Vigne
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Cote d’Or Sub-Appellation: Chambolle-Musigny AOC
Varietal Composition: 100 % Pinot Noir
Aging: 100 % new French Oak
Climate: Continental micro-climate
Alcohol: 13 %
Winemaker: Frédéric Magnien
Production: n/a
Bottle Value: +/-$80 USD
Where: New York Vintners When: October 5, 2010 With whom: My work
Perspective: Hard to believe how young this wine is still showing. Tons of toasty new oak influence with a concentrated deep core of black cherry, clove, and vanilla. Though I am sure there is some mineral and earthiness there somewhere it will not show itself until much later on in it’s life. A great wine for a patient collector. Don’t touch it now unless you decant it for at least five hours.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Brilliant deep ruby core and rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Pronounced youthful aromas of vanilla, oak spice and black cherry.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium tannins. Medium(+) alcohol. Medium body. Medium (+) intense flavors of black cherry, plum, vanilla, smoke and toasty barrel. Balance – Refreshing acidity, generous alcohol and well defined black fruit. Texture – velvety tannins and supple viscosity. Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, expressive freshness and harmonious. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Great quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 10-15 years. More if you like it dusty…..
2007 Collovray et Terrier Pouilly Fuisse “Plenitude de Bonte”
Vintage: 2007
Producer/Winery: Collovray et Terrier
Wine: Pouilly Fuisse “Plenitude de Bonte”
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Maconnais Sub-Appellation: Pouilly-Fuisse AOC
Varietal Composition: 100 % Chardonnay
Aging: Barrel fermented 30% new French Oak
Climate: Continental micro-climate
Alcohol: 13 %
Winemaker: Christian Collovray & Jean-Luc Terrier
Production: n/a
Bottle Value: +/-$30 USD
Where: Walla Walla When: June 23, 2010 With whom: Tasting Group: Brian Rudin and Ashley Trout’s house
Perspective: Full bodied with sweet caramel apple aromas and well defined minerality. Definitely a new world style of Pouilly-Fuisse-starting to wonder if all Pouilly-Fuisse is now new world-with concentrated flavors of honey, citrus and tropical fruits. Very enjoyable wine for an afternoon with a fresh baguette and bloomy rind cheeses like Pierre-Robert, Delice d’Bourgogne and L’Edel de Cleron.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Brilliant pale golden core and pale yellow rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of baked apple pie, honey and chalkboard.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium (-) tannins. Medium alcohol. Medium body. Medium (+) intense flavors of lemon, green apple, pineapple, mango, mature oak and chalky mineral. Balance – Unctuous. Refreshing acidity, generous alcohol and well defined fruit. Texture – chalky tannins and supple viscosity. Overall Impression – warm climate ripeness, expressive freshness and harmonious. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Good quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.
2007 Maison Henri Boillot Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Pitangeret
Vintage: 2007
Producer/Winery: Maison Henri Boillot
Wine: Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Pitangeret
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Cote du Beaune Sub-Appellation: Saint-Aubin AOC
Varietal Composition: 100 % Chardonnay
Aging: 50 % new French Oak
Climate: Continental micro-climate
Alcohol: 13.5 %
Winemaker: Henri Boillot
Production: n/a
Bottle Value: $40 USD
Where: Walla Walla When: June 23, 2010 With whom: Tasting Group: Brian Rudin and Ashley Trout’s house
Perspective: Out of six wines we tasted blind in the tasting group this was my favorite. Great balance, concentration, and lively acidity. This wine hit all the right spots with toasty oak and vanilla, citrus blossom and stony/chalky minerality. This is exactly what you would want out of a $40 bottle of white Burgundy. Showing great at the moment with the potential to hold for the next 5-8 years.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear brilliant clarity. Yellow/green core and pale yellow rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of toasty new oak, vanilla, citrus, stony mineral and floral blossom.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium (-) tannins. Medium alcohol. Medium body. Medium (+) intense flavors of lemon, white peach, and chalky mineral. Balance – Dry. Lively acidity, generous alcohol with well defined fruit. Texture – chalky tannins and creamy viscosity. Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, vivid freshness and well structured. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Good quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 5-8 years.
2007 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Vintage: 2007
Producer/Winery: Le Vieux Donjon
Wine: Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Country: France
Region: Southern Rhone
Appellation: Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Varietal Composition: 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% Cinsault
Aging: 2 years new French Oak
Climate: Mediterranean
Alcohol: 14.5 %
Winemaker: Lucien Michel
Production: 5,000 Cases
Bottle Value: $65 USD 750ml / $37 USD 375ml
Where: Walla Walla When: June 21, 2010 With whom: Myself
Perspective: This half bottle was a gift from Nicole for putting together a cheese and antipasto platter for a baby shower she was hosting for her friend, “Thank you Nicole!” The first time I tried this was with Peter on New Year’s Eve after tasting through numerous other bottles of wine and champagne so I think, scratch that, I know I was a little too buzzed to capture its true essence. I remember it being extremely tight with grainy tannins and I knew that it was too young to drink. Now, almost six months later, it seems to have come around a bit more with fruit expression and aromas. (Remember this is a half-bottle so it may vary from a normal 750ml) Lots of grassy dark chocolate and plum on the nose initially, then after some air you start to get those barnyard bretty aromas that I love in CNDP. On the palate the wine is still very lean and showing mostly new oak characteristics like lead pencil and toasty vanilla. If you dig deep you can pick up hints of ripe strawberry, black cherry and baked plum. Great acidity and tannins on this wine will allow it to cellar very well for the next 10-15 years, possibly longer depending on how you like them. Need to compare a 750ml bottle to these notes and see if they differ.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Deep ruby core and pale ruby rim, deep purple highlights. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of dark chocolate, lavender, plum, tobacco, barnyard, and sweet new oak spices.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium tannins. Medium (+) alcohol. Medium body. Medium intense flavors of black cherry, wild strawberry, dark chocolate, oily mineral and plum, Balance – Dry. Lively acidity, well integrated tannins, warm alcohol and well defined fruit. Texture – clay textured tannins and fluid viscosity. Overall Impression – Stemmy/refreshing ripeness, well defined freshness with great structure. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Good quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 10-15 years.
2008 Maison Bleue “Le Montagnette” Grenache
Vintage: 2008
Producer/Winery: Maison Bleue
Wine: “Le Montagnette” Grenache
Country: USA
Region: Washington
Appellation: Horse Heaven Hills: Alder Ridge Vineyard
Varietal Composition: 85 % Grenache, 15% Syrah
Aging: 10 months in 3 year old French Oak
Climate: Continental
Alcohol: 15.4 %
Winemaker: John Martinez
Production: 303 Cases
Bottle Value: $25 USD
Where: Walla Walla When: June 18, 2010 With whom: Myself
Perspective: This is one of the most elegant Grenache based wines I have discovered out of Washington State. Velvety plum, strawberry and raspberry with complex mineral and hints of spicy vanilla-must have used some nice old barrels-make this wine incredibly easy to drink. Be careful, though it does not feel like it is 15.4 % it is! Enjoyed a nice block of Cabrales blue cheese from Spain with it, which was a match made in heaven. This is truly a wine to look out for. I will post more notes on some of Maison Bleue’s other wines which are proving to be very atypical for this region. Be sure to drink this wine at cellar temperature (55 degrees) it makes a world of difference. Check him out www.mbwinery.com.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Deep ruby core and pale rim with highlights of purple in the halo. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of wet stones, plum, strawberry, kirsch, white pepper and sweet spices.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium tannins. Medium (+) alcohol. Medium body. Medium (+) intense flavors of red cherry, wild strawberry, raspberry and plum, Balance – Dry. Lively acidity, supple tannin, generous alcohol and fruit driven. Texture – supple tannins and fluid viscosity. Overall Impression – refreshing ripeness, expressive freshness and elegant. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Good quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now and over the next 3-5 years.
Don Carlo Estate Vineyard
Wow, what a day, I finally escaped my life in the restaurant business to do the one thing I love the most: taste new wines and meet a new winemaker. My god, it’s been since January since I have written a word about wine or even documented a tasting note. It has been nothing but IPA’s and long days since I started managing Olive Marketplace and Cafe. I swore to myself that I would never, ever, get back into the restaurant business again unless I owned the place – and if I was ever crazy enough to own a restaurant then I should then commit myself. Maybe I’ll give myself a mulligan on this one… Anyway, let’s just say it’s good to be back at the keyboard with a glass of wine and something to write about. My side job writing for the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance led me to Lori and Tim Kennedy, owners of Don Carlo Estate Vineyards. Tim is the man who originally started “Tim’s Cascade Style Potato Chips” and after selling the company, they purchased a twelve acre parcel of land and planted a vineyard to produce the types of wines they love most. Lori and Tim are amazing; they have been working like crazy to develop their vineyard which was planted in 2007. The vineyard is planted with 3.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 2 acres of Cabernet Franc and 1 acre of Chardonnay. The vineyard is located on the site of a former apple orchard which runs northeast in orientation and is set up on a Vertical Trellis System (VSP). The vines are meticulously pruned to produce concentrated fruit that will spend their days basking in the sun during the day and receiving a reflection of heat from the cobblestones below well into the evening hours. But do not fear, this wine will not be an over-extracted fruit bomb laced with high alcohol. Lori believes in keeping the alcohol in check and not letting the fruit over ripen.
I took my friend Spencer along for the vineyard tour and we had lunch with Tim and Lori outside the tasting room. Spencer grew up in the northwest and was amazed that the founder of Tim’s Cascades was making him lunch. Me being from the south and east coast had seen the chips only a few times but fed off of his excitement when Tim put down a bowl of freshly fried chips with shaved Parmesan and sea salt. Wow, those things were delicious. We opened a bottle of the 2008 Don Carlo Estate Chardonnay which was super clean and crisp with brilliant clarity. Flavors of apple and pear mixed with hints of tropical fruits and minerals. Great acidity and just a hint of oak made this wine a great start to our lunch. Next, we opened the 2007 Merlot and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Both wines proved to be well balanced with perfectly ripened fruit, generous alcohol and supple tannins. Tim threw a marinated flank steak on the grill and we sat and sipped the wines while eating potato chips – it was pretty cool. Lori is making some nice wines and the prices are great, unlike a lot of the wines in Washington State that are pretty pricey for what they are. Don Carlo Estate wines all sit between the $20 and $30 dollar mark. Good wines, new friends, and great chips!!
By the way I am now addicted to Tim’s Cascade Style Wasabi Chips, which are an excellent pairing with Gruner Veltliner. Enjoy tasting!
2008 Eidos de Padriñán Albariño
Vintage: 2008
Producer/Winery: Eidos de Padriñán
Wine: Albariño
Country: Spain
Region: Galicia
Appellation: Rias Baixas D.O.
Varietal Composition: 100 % Albariño
Aging: Stainless steel
Climate: Maritime
Alcohol: 13.3 %
Winemaker: Emilio Vidal
Production: 5000 cases
Bottle Value: $25 USD
Where: Vintage, Walla Walla When: January 3, 2010 With whom: Greg, Peter, Megan and Dustin
Perspective: I love the simplicity, elegance and freshness of good Albariño. This was my first time with this wine and I will repeat the affair several more times in the future. Clean and fresh with wet limestone, chalk, green apple and lemon zest. I wish I had shellfish and it was summertime.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Pale yellow core and rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of stony mineral, green apple and lemon zest.
Palate: Dry. Medium (+) acidity. Medium tannins. Medium alcohol. Medium (-) body. Medium (+) intense flavors of green apple, lemon, limestone, chalk and tart melon. Balance – Dry. Lively acidity, supple tannin, light alcohol and fruit driven. Texture – clay textured tannins and fluid viscosity. Overall Impression – cool climate ripeness, vivid freshness and elegant. Medium (+) length.
Conclusion: Very good quality for concentration, balance and texture. Drink now.
2006 Pedestal Merlot
Vintage: 2006
Producer/Winery: Long Shadows Vintners Collection
Wine: Pedestal Merlot
Country: USA
Region: Washington
Appellation: Columbia Valley
Varietal Composition: 86% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec.
Aging: 22 Months, 100 % French oak, 85% new.
Climate: Continental
Alcohol: 14.7 %
Winemaker: Michel Rolland
Production: 1877 cases
Bottle Value: $60 USD
Where: Vintage, Walla Walla When: January 3, 2010 With whom: Greg, Peter, Dustin and Joel
Perspective: I’d compare this wine to a pseudo hot celebrity that I wouldn’t kick out bed but after an hour or so I would get a little bored with. It’s definitely a good wine, but I wish it had more complexity and layers. Full delivery on extraction and body. Balanced flavors of toasty barrel, black cherries, plum and dark chocolate with a smooth supple finish.
Systematic Approach
Appearance: Clear clarity. Deep garnet core and rim. No sediment or deposits.
Nose: Clean. Medium (+) youthful aromas of toasty oak and black cherry.
Palate: Dry. Medium acidity. Medium (+) soft/ripe tannins. Medium (+) alcohol. Medium (+) body. Medium (+) intense flavors of black cherry, vanillin, dark chocolate and plum. Balance – Dry. Flabby acidity, supple tannins, generous alcohol and fruit driven. Texture – velvety tannins and fleshy viscosity. Overall Impression – overripe ripeness, expressive freshness and mellow. Medium length.
Conclusion: Good quality for concentration. Drink now or hold for the next 3 years.